Sep. 16--NEW YORK -- Send in the clowns.

Marc Jacobs' delightful collection, shown Monday night at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week here, presented a whimsical outlook for spring to an industry anxious about its future. Jacobs, whose celebrity-laden shows are often described as circuses, stopped short of red noses and rainbow wigs, but his white-faced-bordering-on-geisha-makeup models sported yards of pleated ruffles spun into fantastic costumes, er, clothes.

First down the runway -- a great gray trench, followed by elaborately pleated tops and dresses sculpted into ruffles with pearl drops. These sparkled before an audience that included Madonna -- front row with her two must-have accessories, false eyelashes and boyfriend Jesus Luz.

Dangerously-close-to-costume were sheer white pleated pants with black edging (for Bozo's sake, no!), but the blush dress over shirt and sheer leggings made a dramatic statement (as in, "let's not take ourselves so seriously").

In between the ruffles were layered ensembles; bras and panties over tops and terrific leggings, and open-back cashmere sweaters topping a peek-a-boo corset. Sexiest yet were the long skirts stitched from several fabrics.

Vera Wang always finds inspiration in the past, and yesterday's spring collection, "Partying with Poiret," an homage to the late mid-20th century French designer Paul Poiret, was masterful.

Wang made heavy use of tulle, gauze and sheer organza, and the layered results -- a black organza vest over a sheer draped tunic, for instance -- were unfettered.

Romantic floral prints in deep green and purple were stunning. The green tulip print was lovely, but the purple poppy print outbloomed the others. The stigma of every poppy was hand-stitched.

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Most of the spring collections have literally paled in comparison to Thakoon's Monday afternoon show. While many opted for saturated shades such as blush, gray and sky blue, the young Boston University grad made use of a bolder palette for women who don't shy from the spotlight (Michelle Obama's a fan).

Royal and cobalt blues ruled the runway and mixed with the floral prints for which he has become famous. The juxtaposition of form-fitting techno fabrics and gently gathered georgette produced pieces that moved in all the right directions.

Highlights: a dress that paired a blousy silk jacquard top with a tight twill bottom, and an abstract silk T-shirt and contour seamed pant.

jradsken@bostonherald.com

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